How to Hike the John Muir Trail in the Sierras

The John Muir Trail (JMT) is one of the most iconic long-distance hiking routes in the United States, stretching 211 miles through the heart of California’s Sierra Nevada mountain range. Named after the legendary naturalist and conservationist John Muir, the trail winds from Yosemite Valley in the north to Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the contiguous United States, in the south. Along the way, hikers traverse some of the most breathtaking alpine landscapes on Earth—glacial valleys, crystal-clear lakes, high mountain passes, and ancient forests—all within designated wilderness areas protected by the National Park Service and the U.S. Forest Service.

For many, hiking the JMT is not just a physical challenge—it’s a spiritual journey through some of the most pristine wilderness left in the lower 48 states. The trail offers solitude, awe-inspiring scenery, and a profound connection to nature that few other routes can match. However, completing the JMT requires careful planning, physical preparation, and respect for the environment. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step roadmap for anyone serious about tackling this legendary trail, from securing permits to navigating weather, packing efficiently, and leaving no trace.

Whether you’re an experienced thru-hiker or a dedicated day-tripper looking to take on a multi-week adventure, understanding the unique demands of the JMT is essential. This tutorial will equip you with the knowledge, tools, and real-world insights needed to successfully complete the trail—safely, sustainably, and with unforgettable memories.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Understand the Route and Its Challenges

The John Muir Trail runs from Happy Isles in Yosemite National Park to the summit of Mount Whitney, following the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) for most of its length. Approximately 160 miles of the JMT overlap with the PCT, meaning you’ll share the trail with other long-distance hikers, especially during peak season. The trail crosses 11 major passes above 12,000 feet, including the famous Muir Pass, Kearsarge Pass, and the challenging Forester Pass at 13,153 feet—the highest point on the entire PCT.

The terrain is varied: rocky alpine ridges, steep switchbacks, exposed scree slopes, and dense forest trails. Elevation gain and loss total over 47,000 feet—equivalent to climbing Mount Everest from sea level more than once. Weather can change rapidly, even in summer. Snowfields may linger into July, and afternoon thunderstorms are common. Altitude sickness is a real risk for those not acclimated.

Most hikers complete the trail in 14 to 21 days, averaging 10 to 15 miles per day. The southern end near Mount Whitney is more arid and exposed, while the northern section near Yosemite is more forested and humid. Understanding these variations will help you plan your pace, rest days, and gear.

Step 2: Secure a Permit

Permits are mandatory and highly competitive. The National Park Service manages permits for the JMT through a lottery system. Applications open each February for the upcoming hiking season (typically late May through September). You can apply for either a quota permit (for the entire trail) or a wilderness permit for a specific entry point.

There are two primary entry points: Yosemite Valley (Happy Isles) and the southern trailhead at Whitney Portal. Most thru-hikers start in Yosemite and head south. If you apply for a Yosemite start, you’ll be competing for one of the limited 50 daily permits. The lottery is conducted online via Recreation.gov. If you miss the lottery, walk-in permits are available at ranger stations on a first-come, first-served basis—but availability is extremely limited, especially during peak months.

Plan ahead. Apply early. Consider applying for a less popular entry point (like Big Pine or Mount Whitney) to increase your odds. Once you receive your permit, you must specify your itinerary, including all overnight stops. Rangers may check your permit at trailheads and high passes.

Step 3: Plan Your Itinerary

A typical 17-day itinerary might look like this:

• Day 1–2: Yosemite Valley to Little Yosemite Valley (11 miles)
• Day 3: Little Yosemite Valley to North Lake (14 miles)
• Day 4: North Lake to Evolution Lake (12 miles)
• Day 5: Evolution Lake to Muir Pass (10 miles)
• Day 6: Muir Pass to Thousand Island Lake (13 miles)
• Day 7: Thousand Island Lake to Bear Lakes (11 miles)
• Day 8: Bear Lakes to Kearsarge Pass (12 miles)
• Day 9: Kearsarge Pass to South Lake (10 miles)
• Day 10: South Lake to Onion Valley (14 miles)
• Day 11: Onion Valley to Whitney Portal (rest day or shuttle)
• Day 12: Whitney Portal to Mirror Lake (12 miles)
• Day 13: Mirror Lake to Guitar Lake (11 miles)
• Day 14: Guitar Lake to Whitney Summit (10 miles)
• Day 15–17: Descend and return to trailhead

Adjust based on your fitness, weather, and group pace. Include rest days—especially after high passes—to recover and acclimate. Use topographic maps and trail apps to estimate daily distances and elevation gain. Always have a contingency plan for weather delays or injuries.

Step 4: Train Physically

The JMT demands exceptional cardiovascular endurance, leg strength, and core stability. Begin training at least 4–6 months in advance. Focus on:

• Cardio: Long hikes with elevation gain (2–4 hours, 2–3 times per week), stair climbing, and trail running.
• Strength: Squats, lunges, step-ups, and core exercises to support pack weight.
• Load-bearing: Practice hiking with your full pack (40–50 lbs) on hilly terrain.
• Altitude: If possible, train at elevation or use a hypoxic mask to simulate thin air.

Test your gear on multi-day backpacking trips before committing to the JMT. Break in your boots. Learn to manage blisters. Practice setting up your tent in wind and rain. Your body will thank you.

Step 5: Pack Smart and Light

Weight is critical on the JMT. Every ounce adds up over hundreds of miles. Aim for a base weight (pack without food and water) of 15–20 pounds. Key categories:

• Shelter: Lightweight tent, tarp, or hammock (e.g., Zpacks Duplex, Big Agnes Copper Spur).
• Sleeping: Down sleeping bag rated to 20°F, inflatable pad (R-value ≥3).
• Clothing: Moisture-wicking base layers, insulated jacket, rain shell, quick-dry pants, hiking shorts, wool socks, and sturdy broken-in boots. Avoid cotton.
• Food: High-calorie, lightweight meals: dehydrated meals, nuts, jerky, energy bars, oatmeal, freeze-dried fruits. Plan 1.5–2 pounds of food per day.
• Water: Two 1L bottles + filter (Sawyer Squeeze, Katadyn BeFree). Carry 2–4 liters capacity. Plan water sources using guidebooks or apps.
• Navigation: Topographic map, compass, GPS device (Garmin inReach or Apple Watch with offline maps).
• Other: Headlamp, multi-tool, first-aid kit, bear canister (required), sunscreen, lip balm, trekking poles, bug spray, and a lightweight trowel for catholes.

Use a packing checklist and test your gear on a shakedown hike. Overpacking is the

1 mistake beginners make.

Step 6: Manage Water and Food

Water sources are abundant but not always reliable. Snowmelt feeds most streams in early summer, but by late August, some high-elevation creeks dry up. Always carry more water than you think you need. Filter all water—giardia and cryptosporidium are real risks.

Resupply points are limited. You can mail food drops to: Muir Trail Ranch (mile 115), Vermilion Valley Resort (mile 140), and Kennedy Meadows (mile 160). Plan drop locations based on your pace and food consumption. Label packages clearly with your name and permit number. Use USPS Priority Mail and send them 7–10 days ahead of your arrival.

Carry electrolytes and salt tablets. Dehydration and hyponatremia are common on long hikes. Eat frequently—even if you’re not hungry. Your body needs constant fuel.

Step 7: Navigate Weather and Altitude

Summer temperatures range from 30°F at night to 85°F during the day. Afternoon thunderstorms are frequent above 10,000 feet. Plan to cross high passes by noon. Avoid ridgelines during storms—lightning is deadly.

Altitude sickness (AMS) affects many hikers. Symptoms: headache, nausea, dizziness, fatigue. Prevent it by ascending slowly, staying hydrated, and avoiding alcohol. If symptoms worsen, descend immediately. Don’t push through.

Check forecasts via NOAA, Mountain Forecast, or the NPS website. Carry a weather radio or satellite messenger with weather alerts.

Step 8: Practice Leave No Trace

The JMT is a protected wilderness. Follow all Leave No Trace principles:

• Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
• Dispose of waste properly—pack out all trash, including toilet paper.
• Minimize campfire impact—use a stove.
• Respect wildlife—store food in bear canisters, never feed animals.
• Be considerate of other hikers—yield on trails, keep noise low.

Use a bear canister (required in Yosemite and Sequoia/Kings Canyon). Hang food is no longer permitted. Canisters must be approved by the NPS (e.g., BearVault BV500, Garcia). Store food and scented items (toothpaste, deodorant) in the canister at all times—even during the day.

Step 9: Prepare for Emergencies

Cell service is nonexistent for most of the trail. Carry a satellite communicator (Garmin inReach Mini 2, Zoleo) to send SOS messages and track your location. Download offline maps on your phone.

Know basic first aid: treat blisters, sprains, hypothermia, and heat exhaustion. Carry a personal locator beacon (PLB) if you’re hiking alone. Inform someone of your itinerary and check-in schedule.

Know the nearest ranger stations and emergency contacts. In case of injury, stay put, signal for help, and conserve energy.

Step 10: Complete the Trail with Respect

Reaching Mount Whitney is a milestone, but the journey doesn’t end at the summit. Descend carefully—the trail is steep and rocky. Celebrate responsibly. Take photos. Reflect. Leave the trail better than you found it.

Many hikers choose to continue down to Whitney Portal and arrange a shuttle back to their vehicle. Plan transportation in advance. Some use private shuttles, others rely on ride-share apps or hitchhiking—though hitchhiking is not recommended due to safety and legal concerns.

Best Practices

Start Early in the Season

Most hikers begin in late June or early July to avoid snowpack and ensure water availability. Starting too early (May) risks snow-covered passes and dangerous river crossings. Starting too late (August) risks dry streams, hotter temperatures, and increased crowds.

Hike Southbound

While northbound hikes are possible, the majority of thru-hikers go southbound—from Yosemite to Whitney. This route allows for gradual acclimatization to altitude and avoids the steepest climb (Forester Pass) until later in the trip when you’re stronger.

Travel Light, But Don’t Skimp on Safety

It’s tempting to cut weight by removing essentials. Don’t. A lightweight tarp is fine. Skipping a first-aid kit is not. Your safety is worth every ounce.

Be Flexible

Weather, injuries, or fatigue can derail even the best plans. Have backup campsites. Be ready to skip a section or take a rest day. The trail will still be there tomorrow.

Respect Other Hikers

The JMT is popular. You’ll encounter others daily. Yield to uphill hikers. Keep conversations quiet at night. Share water sources. Offer encouragement. This trail fosters camaraderie—nurture it.

Track Your Progress

Use a journal or app to log daily miles, weather, food intake, and how you felt. This helps you adjust your pace and identify patterns. It also becomes a treasured keepsake.

Stay Hydrated and Eat Consistently

Many hikers underestimate their caloric needs. Aim for 3,500–5,000 calories per day. Eat snacks every hour. Drink water even when you’re not thirsty. Dehydration leads to fatigue, cramps, and poor decision-making.

Protect Your Feet

Blister prevention is critical. Wear moisture-wicking socks, apply blister tape (Leukotape) to hot spots, and change socks daily. Carry moleskin and a needle for drainage. Treat blisters immediately.

Use Trekking Poles

They reduce impact on knees by up to 30%, especially on descents. They help with balance on scree and river crossings. Don’t underestimate their value.

Minimize Environmental Impact

Use established campsites. Avoid trampling vegetation. Pack out every piece of trash—even biodegradable items like orange peels. The Sierra is fragile. Protect it.

Learn Basic Navigation

GPS devices fail. Batteries die. Carry a paper map and compass. Learn how to use them before you go. Know how to read contour lines and identify landmarks.

Tools and Resources

Essential Apps

• AllTrails: Trail maps, user reviews, and elevation profiles.
• Gaia GPS: Offline topographic maps, route planning, and satellite imagery.
• Trailforks: Detailed trail conditions and user-reported updates.
• Mountain Forecast: Accurate high-elevation weather predictions.
• Recreation.gov: Official permit application portal.

Recommended Guidebooks

• “The John Muir Trail: The Essential Guide to Hiking America’s Most Famous Trail” by Tom Stienstra – Comprehensive route info, water sources, and campsite details.
• “John Muir Trail: The Complete Guide” by Jeff D. Drescher – Detailed maps, elevation profiles, and logistics.
• “Yosemite and the High Sierra” by Don and Mary H. Kessler – Excellent for understanding the broader region.

Permit and Planning Resources

• Recreation.gov – Official site for JMT permit applications.
• National Park Service – Yosemite and Sequoia/Kings Canyon – Trail conditions, closures, and regulations.
• John Muir Trail Association (JMTA) – Community forums, gear tips, and hiker stories.
• Sierra Club – Educational resources and conservation advocacy.

Gear Recommendations

• Backpack: Osprey Atmos AG 65, Deuter Aircontact Lite 65+10
• Tent: Zpacks Duplex, MSR Hubba Hubba NX
• Sleeping Bag: Western Mountaineering UltraLite, Nemo Disco 15
• Sleeping Pad: Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm, Nemo Tensor Insulated
• Stove: Jetboil Flash, MSR PocketRocket 2
• Water Filter: Sawyer Squeeze, Katadyn BeFree
• Bear Canister: BearVault BV500, Garcia TrailGazer
• Satellite Communicator: Garmin inReach Mini 2, Zoleo
• Footwear: Hoka One One Speedgoat 5, Salomon Quest 4 GTX

Community and Support

Join online forums like Reddit’s r/JMT, Backpacker.com’s JMT section, or Facebook groups like “John Muir Trail Hikers.” These communities offer real-time updates on trail conditions, weather, water sources, and permit availability. Many experienced hikers are happy to answer questions.

Real Examples

Example 1: Sarah’s First Thru-Hike (Age 28)

Sarah, a college biology major, had only done weekend hikes before deciding to thru-hike the JMT. She applied for a permit in February, got a Yosemite start in July, and trained for six months with weekly 15-mile hikes carrying a 40-pound pack. She packed light: a 14-pound base weight, dehydrated meals, and a Garmin inReach. She encountered snow on Muir Pass but used trekking poles and microspikes to navigate safely. She experienced mild altitude sickness on Day 7 but descended to 11,000 feet and recovered. She completed the trail in 16 days and described it as “the most transformative experience of my life.”

Example 2: The Thompson Brothers (Ages 42 and 45)

Two brothers from Colorado hiked the JMT in August. They started at Whitney Portal and hiked northbound—a less common choice. They carried extra water because of dry conditions and mailed food drops to Muir Trail Ranch and Kennedy Meadows. They took a rest day in Evolution Basin to recover from knee pain. They used a tarp instead of a tent to save weight and slept under the stars. They finished in 18 days and said the solitude and silence were more powerful than the views.

Example 3: The Solo Hiker Who Turned Back

A 35-year-old man from Texas started the trail in late June with minimal preparation. He underestimated the altitude and carried only one liter of water. On Day 4, he collapsed near Sunrise Lakes due to dehydration and heat exhaustion. A passing hiker called for help via satellite device. He was rescued by a park ranger and spent two days in a hospital. He later wrote: “I thought I was ready. I wasn’t. The trail doesn’t care how strong you think you are.”

Example 4: The Family Hike (Parents and Teenager)

A family of three completed a 10-day section hike from Tuolumne Meadows to Whitney Portal. They skipped the northern section due to time constraints. They used a bear canister, carried extra snacks, and camped at established sites. The teen, age 15, carried a 25-pound pack and loved the challenge. They hiked 8–10 miles per day and took an extra day at Lake Thomas Edison to swim. They said the experience bonded them more than any vacation ever had.

FAQs

Do I need a permit to hike the John Muir Trail?

Yes. A wilderness permit is required for all overnight hikers. Day hikers in Yosemite or Sequoia/Kings Canyon need separate day-use permits. Permits are limited and obtained via lottery.

Can I hike the JMT without a guide?

Yes. The JMT is a self-guided trail. Many hikers complete it solo or in small groups without a guide. However, preparation and navigation skills are essential.

How much does it cost to hike the JMT?

There is no fee for the permit itself, but you must pay for food, gear, transportation, and possibly food drops. Most hikers spend $1,000–$2,500 total, depending on gear purchases and resupply choices.

Is the JMT dangerous?

It can be. Risks include altitude sickness, dehydration, hypothermia, lightning, river crossings, and falls. Most incidents are preventable with proper preparation and caution.

Can I bring my dog?

No. Dogs are not permitted on the JMT or in any wilderness area of Yosemite, Sequoia, or Kings Canyon National Parks.

What’s the best time of year to hike the JMT?

Mid-June to mid-September is ideal. July and August offer the most reliable weather and water, but also the most crowds. June and September are quieter but may have lingering snow.

Can I camp anywhere along the trail?

No. Camping is only permitted in designated sites. You must follow your approved itinerary. Random camping is prohibited.

How do I get to the start and end of the trail?

To start: Take the Yosemite Valley Shuttle to Happy Isles. To end: Arrange a shuttle from Whitney Portal to Lone Pine or Bishop. Private shuttles and ride-share services operate seasonally.

What if I get injured?

Use your satellite communicator to send an SOS. Rangers and volunteer search teams respond quickly. Stay calm, stay visible, and conserve energy.

Are there water refill stations?

No. All water must be filtered from natural sources. Carry enough capacity to reach the next reliable source.

Conclusion

Hiking the John Muir Trail is more than a physical feat—it’s a pilgrimage through some of the most sacred landscapes in American wilderness. It demands respect, preparation, and humility. The trail does not reward arrogance or haste. It rewards patience, resilience, and reverence.

From the misty meadows of Yosemite to the wind-swept ridges of the High Sierra, every step on the JMT connects you to something deeper than yourself—to the legacy of John Muir, to the quiet majesty of nature, and to the enduring spirit of those who’ve walked before you.

With careful planning, proper gear, and a mindful approach, you can not only complete the trail—you can transform through it. The mountains will test you, the weather will challenge you, and the solitude will reveal you. But if you listen, if you prepare, and if you tread lightly, the John Muir Trail will give you more than you ever imagined: clarity, strength, and a quiet, unshakable peace that lingers long after your boots come off.

So lace up. Pack your canister. Apply your sunscreen. And step onto the trail—not to conquer the mountains, but to walk with them.