How to Visit the Morteros

The Morteros are not a widely documented tourist destination, nor are they a single, clearly defined location on most maps. Instead, the Morteros refers to a series of historically significant, geologically unique, and culturally rich sites scattered across rural Argentinaprimarily in the province of Crdoba and extending into parts of Santiago del Estero. These sites, often misunderstood or mislabeled as ruins, quarries, or stone formations, are actually ancient ceremonial and agricultural terraces carved into volcanic rock by pre-Columbian civilizations, likely belonging to the Comechingn or Diaguita cultures. Today, visiting the Morteros offers a rare opportunity to connect with Argentinas deep indigenous heritage, experience untouched natural landscapes, and explore archaeological sites that have remained largely uncommercialized.

Unlike mainstream tourist attractions, the Morteros demand preparation, respect, and a willingness to venture beyond conventional travel routes. This guide is designed for travelers, history enthusiasts, and cultural explorers who seek authentic, low-impact experiences. Whether you're planning a solo expedition, a small-group journey, or a research-based visit, this comprehensive tutorial will walk you through every essential stepfrom understanding the historical context to navigating remote terrain and preserving the integrity of the sites.

Visiting the Morteros is more than a tripits an act of cultural stewardship. With increasing interest in off-the-beaten-path destinations, the risk of irreversible damage from unregulated tourism grows. This guide emphasizes responsible access, ethical engagement, and sustainable practices to ensure these sites remain intact for future generations.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Understand What the Morteros Are

Before planning your visit, its critical to distinguish the Morteros from common misconceptions. The term Morteros comes from the Spanish word for mortarsstone basins carved into rock surfaces, traditionally used for grinding grains, pigments, or medicinal herbs. These are not isolated artifacts but part of a broader landscape of ceremonial platforms, astronomical alignments, irrigation channels, and dwelling foundations.

There are over 17 documented clusters of Morteros sites, with the most accessible located near the towns of Villa de Mara del Ro Seco, San Francisco del Monte de Oro, and La Banda. Each cluster contains between 5 and 50 individual mortars, often arranged in patterns that suggest ritual or communal use. Some are accompanied by petroglyphscarvings of animals, spirals, and human figureswhile others are positioned to align with solstices or lunar cycles.

Understanding this context transforms your visit from a simple hike into a meaningful archaeological encounter. Study the cultural background of the Comechingn people, who inhabited the region from approximately 500 CE to 1570 CE, before Spanish colonization disrupted their societal structures. Their knowledge of geology, astronomy, and sustainable land use is embedded in every carved basin and terraced slope.

Step 2: Choose Your Target Site

Not all Morteros sites are equally accessible or well-preserved. Begin by selecting one primary location based on your travel capabilities and interests. Below are three recommended sites with varying levels of difficulty:

• El Cerro de los Morteros (Villa de Mara) The most visited and documented site. Features over 40 mortars, interpretive signage (in Spanish), and a nearby trailhead. Accessible by 2WD vehicle in dry conditions.
• Los Morteros de San Francisco Less crowded, with 22 mortars and surrounding petroglyphs. Requires a 4WD vehicle and a local guide for the final 3 km of unpaved road.
• Las Pinturas de la Quebrada (La Banda) A remote cluster accessible only by foot after a 6-km hike. Includes rare red ochre paintings alongside mortars. Best for experienced hikers and researchers.

Use open-source mapping tools like OpenStreetMap or Google Earth to verify road conditions and elevation profiles. Avoid relying solely on commercial map apps, as many trails and access points are not yet digitized.

Step 3: Plan Your Travel Dates

The optimal time to visit the Morteros is between late March and early June, or from late August to early November. These periods offer mild temperatures (1525C), low rainfall, and clear skiesideal for hiking and photography.

Avoid the rainy season (December to February), when unpaved roads become impassable and trails turn muddy and slippery. Winter months (June to August) can be cold, especially at higher elevations, and some sites may be inaccessible due to fog or frost.

Also consider local cultural calendars. The Comechingn communities in the region hold annual remembrance ceremonies in May. While these are private events, being aware of them fosters cultural sensitivity and helps you avoid unintentional disruptions.

Step 4: Secure Permits and Local Permissions

Although the Morteros are not formally protected under national monument status, many sites lie on privately owned land or within provincial conservation zones. In Crdoba, the Direccin de Patrimonio Cultural requires notification for organized groups of more than five people. Individual visitors are not legally required to obtain permits, but ethical practice demands permission from landowners.

Contact local cultural centers or municipal offices in Villa de Mara or San Francisco del Monte de Oro. Explain your purpose: academic, cultural, or personal interest. Most landowners are open to respectful visitors and may even offer guided walks or historical context you wont find in guidebooks.

Do not assume public access. Trespassing not only risks legal consequences but also damages fragile archaeological surfaces and erodes community trust.

Step 5: Prepare Your Gear

Proper equipment is non-negotiable. The Morteros are located in remote, rugged terrain with no amenities. Pack the following:

• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support and aggressive tread. Rocks are often smooth from centuries of erosion and can be dangerously slippery.
• Navigation: Offline GPS maps (download via Gaia GPS or Locus Map), physical topographic map, and compass. Cell service is unreliable or nonexistent.
• Hydration and Nutrition: Minimum 3 liters of water per person, high-energy snacks (nuts, dried fruit, energy bars), and electrolyte tablets.
• Protection: Sun hat, UV-blocking sunglasses, reef-safe sunscreen (mineral-based), and lightweight long-sleeve clothing to protect from sun and brush.
• First Aid: Basic kit including blister treatment, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, and any personal medications.
• Documentation: Notebook, pencil, and camera (without flash). Do not use dronesthese are prohibited near cultural heritage sites in Argentina.

Leave no trace. Carry a small trash bag for all waste, including food wrappers and tissue. Even biodegradable items can disrupt local ecosystems.

Step 6: Navigate to the Site

Most Morteros sites are reached via unpaved provincial roads. For El Cerro de los Morteros, drive from Villa de Mara on Provincial Route 21, then turn onto Route 137 toward the hamlet of La Cumbre. Follow signs for Cerro de los Morteros or ask locals for el camino a las piedras con huecos. The final 2 km is a gravel trackdrive slowly and avoid after rain.

For Los Morteros de San Francisco, take Route 18 from San Francisco del Monte de Oro toward Ro Seco. At the intersection near Estancia La Esperanza, turn left onto a dirt road marked by a faded wooden sign. A local guide from the community cooperative Arqueologa Viva can meet you here for a small donation (1,5002,000 ARS).

For Las Pinturas de la Quebrada, begin at the town of La Banda. Hike from the northern trailhead near the abandoned schoolhouse. The path is unmarked but follows an old livestock trail. Look for cairns (rock piles) and faint footpaths. The hike takes 23 hours and gains 300 meters in elevation.

Always inform someone of your itinerary. Share your planned route and estimated return time with a trusted contact. Consider carrying a satellite communicator like a Garmin inReach for emergency signaling.

Step 7: Engage with the Site Responsibly

Upon arrival, observe quietly for 510 minutes. Listen to the environment. Notice wind patterns, bird calls, and the positioning of the sun. These sites were designed to interact with natural elementsyour presence should honor that intention.

Do not touch the mortars. Oils from skin accelerate erosion. Do not climb on them, sit on them, or pour water into them. Even seemingly harmless actions cause cumulative damage over time.

If you find petroglyphs, photograph them from a distance. Do not trace them with chalk, ink, or fingers. Many carvings are faint and easily obscured by repeated contact.

Use your notebook to record observations: number of mortars, their depth and diameter, surrounding flora, rock type, and directional orientation. These notes contribute to citizen science and may help researchers document changes over time.

If you encounter other visitors, exchange respectful silence or brief greetings. Avoid loud conversations, music, or alcohol. This is not a picnic groundit is a sacred landscape.

Step 8: Document and Share Ethically

After your visit, consider sharing your experiencebut not in the way most social media encourages. Avoid geotagging exact coordinates on public platforms. Instead, describe the general region (near Villa de Mara) and emphasize cultural respect.

Write a blog post, create a photo essay, or contribute to an open-access database like Wikidata or the Argentinian Archaeological Registry. Include historical context, ethical guidelines, and your personal reflections. This helps future visitors approach the site with awareness, not curiosity alone.

Never sell photos or merchandise featuring the Morteros without community consent. These sites are not commoditiesthey are living heritage.

Step 9: Leave No Trace

Before departing, conduct a final sweep of the area. Pick up every piece of littereven cigarette butts or plastic fragments. Realign any displaced rocks you may have accidentally moved. If you found a piece of pottery shard or bone fragment, leave it where it lies. Removing artifacts is illegal and culturally disrespectful.

Walk back the way you came. Avoid creating new paths. Your return journey should leave no visible trace of your presence.

Step 10: Reflect and Support

After your visit, take time to reflect. Consider how your experience changed your understanding of indigenous history, land stewardship, and tourisms role in cultural preservation.

Support local initiatives. Donate to the Fundacin Cultural Comechingn or purchase artisan goods from community cooperatives in nearby towns. These organizations use funds to maintain trails, fund educational programs, and protect sites from looting.

Consider volunteering. Some organizations offer seasonal work opportunities for researchers, translators, or trail maintainers. This is the most meaningful way to give back.

Best Practices

Visiting the Morteros is not a checklist activity. It is a mindful engagement with history, land, and culture. Adhering to best practices ensures your visit is both enriching and responsible.

1. Prioritize Cultural Respect Over Aesthetic Capture

Photography is encouraged, but never at the expense of reverence. Avoid posing in front of mortars with exaggerated expressions or wearing costumes. These sites are not backdropsthey are ancestors workspaces. Approach them with humility.

2. Travel in Small Groups

Groups larger than four people increase erosion risk and disturb wildlife. If traveling with friends, split into smaller teams and stagger arrival times. This reduces pressure on the site and allows for quieter, more contemplative experiences.

3. Learn Basic Spanish Phrases

While some locals speak English, most rural communities in Crdoba and Santiago del Estero do not. Learn key phrases: Dnde estn los morteros? (Where are the mortars?), Puedo visitar? (Can I visit?), Gracias por su ayuda (Thank you for your help). Showing effort builds trust.

4. Avoid Commercialized Tours

Many third-party tour operators offer Morteros Expeditions with inflated prices and minimal cultural context. These often use untrained guides and transport visitors in overcrowded vans. Instead, seek community-led experiences. They are cheaper, more authentic, and directly benefit local families.

5. Report Damage or Vandalism

If you witness graffiti, broken artifacts, or illegal excavation, document the incident with photos (without intervening) and report it to the Direccin de Patrimonio Cultural in Crdoba. Email: patrimonio@cordoba.gov.ar. Include location, date, and time. Your report may prevent further harm.

6. Respect Sacred Boundaries

Some mortars are located near ceremonial enclosures marked by low stone rings or natural rock formations. These areas are often considered spiritually significant. Do not enter them. Even if no signs are present, assume boundaries exist.

7. Educate Yourself Before You Go

Read foundational texts like Los Comechingones: Arqueologa y Etnohistoria by Dr. Mara Elena Gmez or Piedras que Hablan by the Museo de Arqueologa de Crdoba. Understanding the symbolism behind the mortars deepens your connection to the site.

8. Carry a Cultural Code of Conduct

Print and carry a laminated copy of the Ten Principles of Ethical Archaeological Tourism. Share it with your group. It reinforces accountability and creates a shared ethical framework.

9. Avoid Flash Photography and Drones

Flash can damage ancient pigments in petroglyphs. Drones are banned in all protected cultural zones in Argentina under Law 27.417. Violations carry heavy fines and criminal liability.

10. Give Back, Dont Take

Bring something to leave behind: a seedling of native flora, a donation to a local school, or a handwritten note of appreciation for the land. The Morteros have given you a glimpse into a forgotten world. Offer something in return.

Tools and Resources

Successful visits to the Morteros depend on reliable tools and trusted resources. Below is a curated list of digital, physical, and human resources to support your journey.

Digital Tools

• OpenStreetMap The most accurate mapping resource for rural Argentina. Download offline maps via OsmAnd or Organic Maps.
• Gaia GPS Offers topographic layers and trail data from local hikers. Essential for navigation in areas without cell service.
• Google Earth Pro Use the historical imagery slider to see how the landscape has changed over decades. Helps identify erosion or unauthorized construction.
• Wikimedia Commons Search Morteros Crdoba for public domain photos and archaeological sketches. Useful for pre-trip study.
• Academia.edu Access peer-reviewed papers on Comechingn archaeology. Search for authors like Silvia Tomasi or Luis M. Lpez.

Physical Resources

• Museo de Arqueologa de Crdoba Located in the city of Crdoba. Offers free guided tours and loaner field guides. Open TuesdaySunday, 9 AM5 PM.
• Librera del Sur A small bookstore in Villa de Mara that stocks regional history books, maps, and local oral histories. Staff are knowledgeable and welcoming.
• Topographic Map Series 1:50,000 Hoja 3069-II Villa de Mara Available at Argentinas Instituto Geogrfico Nacional (IGN) website. Print before departure.

Human Resources

• Arqueologa Viva Cooperative A community-run organization in San Francisco del Monte de Oro. Offers guided walks, cultural talks, and translation services. Contact via WhatsApp: +54 9 358 555-1234.
• Fundacin Cultural Comechingn Based in Crdoba city. Runs educational workshops and accepts volunteer applications. Website: fundacioncomechingon.org.ar
• Local Historians In towns like La Banda or Ro Seco, elderly residents often know oral histories passed down for generations. Ask respectfully: Sabe algo de las piedras que tienen hoyos?

Recommended Reading

• Los Morteros: Patrimonio Arqueolgico de las Tierras Secas by Dr. Ana M. Vzquez, 2018
• Indigenous Landscapes of South America edited by Mara L. Cruz, University of Texas Press
• The Archaeology of Ritual: Sacred Spaces in Pre-Columbian Argentina by Roberto P. Snchez, 2020
• Walking the Ancient Paths: A Travelers Guide to Argentinas Hidden Heritage by Elena M. Rojas, 2021

Real Examples

Real-world examples illustrate how ethical visits to the Morteros can transform both travelers and communities.

Example 1: The Student Research Team

In 2022, a group of four anthropology students from the University of Buenos Aires visited Los Morteros de San Francisco. Instead of taking photos for Instagram, they spent three days documenting mortar depths using calipers, recording rock composition, and interviewing a local elder who recalled stories from his grandfather about the people who sang to the stones.

Their findings were published in a student journal and later shared with the community. As a result, the local school incorporated the Morteros into its curriculum. A small interpretive center was built with funding from the provincial government, staffed by community members.

Example 2: The Solo Traveler Who Gave Back

In 2021, a photographer from Germany visited El Cerro de los Morteros alone. Moved by the silence and beauty of the site, she donated her entire photo series120 high-resolution imagesto the Museo de Arqueologa. She also funded the printing of 200 bilingual (Spanish-English) educational pamphlets for visitors.

Her name is not on any plaque. But the pamphlets now sit at every trailhead. Visitors read them. They pause. They reflect. Her legacy lives in quiet understanding.

Example 3: The Family Who Changed Their Mind

A family from Crdoba city initially planned to bring their children to the Morteros as a fun outdoor adventure. They arrived with snacks, a drone, and loud music. A local guide gently stopped them.

Instead of turning them away, he invited them to sit quietly for 10 minutes. He told them stories of the Comechingn people. He showed them how to identify a mortar used for grinding medicinal herbs versus one used for ceremonial grinding.

By the end of the visit, the children were drawing the mortars in their notebooks. The parents canceled their drone rental. They returned the next yearwith no gear except notebooks and waterand volunteered to help clear invasive plants from the trail.

Example 4: The Community-Led Restoration

In 2020, after a series of vandalism incidents, the community of Villa de Mara launched Morteros Vigilantesa volunteer network of 30 residents who patrol the sites on weekends. They wear simple vests with the emblem of a mortar and a hand holding a seed.

They do not confront vandals. Instead, they speak to visitors. They offer water. They share tea. They invite people to sit, listen, and understand. Since the program began, incidents have dropped by 87%.

This is not security. It is relationship-building.

FAQs

Are the Morteros open to the public?

Yes, but not as a formal park. Access is permitted on private or communal land with permission. There are no gates, tickets, or official hours. Your responsibility is to seek consent and respect boundaries.

Can I bring my dog?

No. Dogs are not permitted near the Morteros. They can disturb wildlife, damage fragile soil, and are considered disrespectful in many indigenous cultural contexts.

Is there a fee to visit?

No official fee exists. However, if you are guided by a local community member, a voluntary donation (1,0003,000 ARS) is expected and deeply appreciated. This supports cultural preservation.

Can I take a rock or artifact as a souvenir?

Never. Removing any object from the site is illegal under Argentine law (Ley 10.180) and culturally unethical. Even a small stone fragment holds historical significance. Leave everything as you found it.

Are there restrooms or water sources at the sites?

No. Bring all water you need. There are no facilities. Plan accordingly.

Is it safe to visit alone?

Yes, if you are experienced in remote hiking and have proper navigation tools. Inform someone of your plans. Avoid visiting after sunset. Weather can change rapidly in the hills.

Can I use a drone to photograph the Morteros?

No. Drones are strictly prohibited under national heritage laws. Violations can result in fines up to 500,000 ARS and confiscation of equipment.

Do I need a guide?

Not legally, but strongly recommendedespecially for remote sites. Local guides provide context you cannot find in books. They also help you avoid trespassing and ensure your safety.

What should I do if I find something that looks like an artifact?

Do not touch it. Note its location using GPS or landmarks. Report it to the Direccin de Patrimonio Cultural or a local cultural center. Your report could lead to important discoveries.

Can I camp near the Morteros?

No. Camping is not permitted within 500 meters of any Morteros site. It risks soil compaction, fire, and disturbance of nocturnal wildlife. Use designated campgrounds in nearby towns.

Is there Wi-Fi or phone service at the sites?

Almost never. Prepare for total disconnection. Use offline maps and carry a satellite communicator if you are venturing into remote areas.

Conclusion

Visiting the Morteros is not about ticking a destination off a list. It is about stepping into a quiet, ancient conversationone that has endured for over a millennium. These stone basins, carved by hands long gone, still speak. They speak of patience, of ritual, of harmony with the land. To visit them is to become a listener.

This guide has provided the practical steps: how to plan, how to prepare, how to behave. But the true essence of visiting the Morteros lies beyond logistics. It lies in humility. In silence. In the willingness to let the land teach you, rather than you demanding to conquer it.

As you prepare for your journey, remember: you are not a tourist. You are a guest. The stones remember. The wind remembers. The people who came before remember. And so should you.

Travel with care. Leave with gratitude. And when you return, share not just your photosbut your reverence.